Driving Mexico's Beautiful Pacific Coast from Mazatlan to Puerto Vallarta

Driving Mexico’s Beautiful Pacific Coast from Mazatlan to Puerto Vallarta

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After we got away from the hassle of two police stops in Los Mochis we headed straight for Mazatlan.

Our next big shock was the toll roads. Obviously we had heard about toll roads in Mexico—one thing that is nice is that by law they have to have a free alternative road which is usually much slower, often with potholes, and definitely full of speed bumps.

The fact that I wanted to arrive quickly after a long night on the ferry from Baja, meant that I needed to use the toll roads.

What was shocking though was:

1) how expensive they were—we spent about 400 pesos ($25) total to get to Mazatlan, and

2) how frequent they were—there were at least 5 or 6 toll booths on that 4 hour stretch of road.

Scammed on the Toll Road

We also had another bad taste put in our mouth on an already bad day, when one of those toll booth operators swindled me out of 17 pesos ($1)…

I had no small bills and had to break one, he handed me back a few bills and a handful of change, as I was giving it a cursory glance, he started talking to me (to distract me).

I figured the change looked more or less right (I didn’t count the coins—but they have coins for 10, 5, 2, and 1 peso) and headed out to not hold up traffic. I handed the change to Andrea and she noticed that he shorted us.

We weren’t really liking Mexico much today.

Finally made it to Mazatlan after a long and stressful day. Now we had to find somewhere to stay the night… Easier than done when you are on a budget and it is high season in Mazatlan.

We did our usually stop and ask at various hotels… Many were totally full or charging exorbitant rates (especially those “all-inclusives”). We finally headed into the historic centro where we came across the Posada Colonial for 600 pesos ($37.50) per night with parking in the plaza. That works.

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The Best Restaurant in Mazatlan

That evening we wandered down to the restaurant Panama on the recommendation of the receptionist, and we were definitely not disappointed! Panama is an old institution in both Culiacan and Mazatlan and a must visit.

They have an incredible selection of food from across the country, delicious shakes, and desserts. You can’t go wrong with them.

Andrea said outright that it was the best restaurant we had been to since we set out from Seattle. So good that we went right back the next morning for breakfast.

The next day we needed to take care of a few things, in particular I was due for an oil change after our long drive through Baja.

It took a bit of hunting to find a place—and luck have it, he was just closing up shop for the day. He told me to follow him as he left and he’d lead me to another reputable place so that’s what I did.

I got the full service oil change which included changing out the spark plugs, new oil filter, cleaning the brake pads, etc. Turns out one of my brake pads was nearly completely worn out, so I got those handled as well. The whole thing took nearly two hours, but it only cost me about $112.

Mazatlan Waterfront

By now it was mid-afternoon so we headed straight down to the waterfront to check out the famous beaches of Mazatlan.

We walked along the picturesque beach that I’d heard so much about from my parents’ vacation there years ago… The parasailing, the sport fishing, etc.

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The roar of the Pacific is strong here, and you must pay attention to the flags on the beach which show where the currents are strong (and potentially deadly).

The beach is lined with bars and restaurants, we popped into a busy little shack for some ceviche.

It's a me, Ryan!

(Psst... Wanna know the "secret" to traveling forever or being free to do what you love? Here's how I did it, in five simple steps)

The brought out the biggest plate of ceviche I’d ever seen. I wasn’t even able to finish it all—and Andrea doesn’t do seafood.

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After the gorgeous sunset we headed out for a cheaper place for the night…

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The guys at the oil change place recommended a cheap motel on the way out of town, Motel Eiffel, which only cost us 350 pesos for the night.

Traveling to Mazatlan on your next trip? Book the perfect room on Booking.com today!

Driving Along the Pacific Coast

The next day we got an early start for the LONG (7 hour or so) drive to Puerto Vallarta via the free roads.

Puerto Vallarta is a strange town to drive in—lots of old colonial cobblestone streets, and peculiar systems like the divided main road from the auxiliary side roads. For instance if you want to turn left, you must exit to the parallel road on the right and then turn across four lanes of traffic.

It also made it a problem to stop at hotels: by the time you passed a decent looking hotel you couldn’t access it thanks to the divided road.

Driving through Puerto Vallarta was frustrating—and once again we had problems finding somewhere affordable to stay. We ended up leaving Puerto Vallarta to the neighboring town of Nayarit where we found a really cheap and somewhat creepy hotel.

We survived the night and then headed to Starbucks in Riviera Nayarit so we could better search for a place to stay.

Puerto Vallarta

I had $75 of credits on Airbnb thanks to referrals (you can sign up here and get some free credits for my referral!) and we were able to find an awesome apartment on the top floor of a 4 story building, rooftop deck, secure parking garage, and two balconies with a view of the water.

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Such an amazing place!

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Unfortunately the both of us came down with a stomach bug during our time in Puerto Vallarta and we spent the whole time in the apartment to be close to the bathroom.

Thus we never really got the opportunity to explore the town, the beach, or anything… We just got to know the city from the car and looking over it from the balcony.

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We were treated to the most spectacular thunder storm and light show that I’ve ever seen. The Pacific was lighting up every second, it seemed.

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Traveling to Puerto Vallarta on your next trip? Book the perfect room on Booking.com today!

Mexico Travel Guide

Driving Mexico's Beautiful Pacific Coast from Mazatlan to Puerto Vallarta

Read Next: My Mexico Travel Guide, Tips, and Resources

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Driving Mexico's Beautiful Pacific Coast from Mazatlan to Puerto Vallarta


Author, Writer, and Head Honcho at Desk to Dirtbag
Ryan is an author, adventurer, perpetual wanderer, and self-proclaimed dirtbag (but that might not mean what you think). Originally from Seattle, he headed to Washington D.C. where he spent five years working for Congress before heeding the call of the wild. He set out truck camping to road trip across the American West. Since then he set out traveling to Colombia, drove across all of Central America, and also wrote a best selling book: Big Travel, Small Budget. He just finished driving his old truck across all of South America. Follow the adventures on social media or read more about me.

Comments 5

  1. I’ve been reading a number of articles on your site today as we’re planning to spend a few months next Winter on a road trip through Mexico (like you starting in Baja). I was curious how much the ferry cost. Did you know that you can take a ferry directly to Mazatlan from La Paz instead of to Topolobampo? Panama is an interesting restaurant in Maz, but for a great dining experience, I recommend Pancho’s. Mr Lionso’s out at Playa Bruja is also a great experience. I like the ceviche in Mazatlan better than anywhere else.

    Puerto Vallarta is beautiful and more ‘lush’ than Mazatlan, but more expensive with a lot more focus on ‘gringo’ tourism. You’ll find the more ‘budget’ oriented hotels in areas like Pitillal, a neighborhood 10-15 minutes inland from Centro. Some inexpensive airbnb options if it isn’t Christmas or Spring Break.

    1. Post

      Hey Mike!

      It was around $187 for the crossing when we did it… See my article about the Baja to Mainland Ferry. Yeah, we knew about the ferry to Mazatlan but it didn’t work out for us in terms of time/availability. I would highly recommend going to Mazatlan rather than Los Mochis though, because it really doesn’t save you much money and it really sucks to arrive to mainland Mexico, super tired, only to set out driving to Mazatlan anyway.

      Thanks for the insights and recs, and hope you have a great time on the road!

  2. Hey!
    Wondering, why do you recommend traveling through baja and taking the ferry vs. starting in Nogales or Mexicali and heading down along the mainland coast from there?

    1. Post

      Because Baja itself is beautiful and definitely worth exploring, plus it is pretty tranquilo compared to mainland Mexico, thus it is considered a nice and gentle introduction to roadtripping through Mexico, rather than being thrown in with the wolves. By virtually all accounts, the state of Sonora can be somewhat sketchy.

  3. wow, looks like you had quite an adventure on this trip! so sorry to hear that you caught a stomach bug, it must have been so frustrating to spend time indoors instead of exploring the city 🙁
    I have a friend who recently visited Mexico’s western coast, she was especially astonished with diving at the Sea Lions Colony in Baja California (https://dive.site/explore/site/sea-lions-colony-36yM) – but now that I’ve read your article I’m not so sure that Mexico’s western coast is a destination for me.

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